![Repair Repair](/uploads/1/2/5/6/125626124/473689847.jpg)
Provide Area IV with installation programs and services to support mission readiness and quality of life; on order, support Noncombatant Evacuation Operations and provide Army fixed base command. Cracked Transmission Housing!? Looking for some advice on what appears to be an unusual issue on our 2004 XC90 2.5L (190,000 km) Was driving to the store - noticed that the transmission flared a bit, then about 5 minutes later (as we pulled into the parking lot), the transmission wouldn't engage at all anymore.
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If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please. Howdy all: I have the option to repair a cracked bell housing on a Ford Ranger, 1983 vintage. The crack in question is around the area holding the starter. A Is this a repair worth doing? B Cast aluminum. What filler, preheat necessary?
My idea is to drill the end of the crack, squeeze together with a ratchet strap, grind about half way through the crack in a V shape. Fill in the V with molten aluminum. On the other side, grind the crack to the base of the previous weld bead and repeat. The crack isn't in a 'high torque' area in regards to transferring engine torque.
Only on the 'bubble' that the starter nosecone protrudes into. The torque it has to deal with is the starter's torque. Howdy all: I have the option to repair a cracked bell housing on a Ford Ranger, 1983 vintage. The crack in question is around the area holding the starter. A Is this a repair worth doing?
B Cast aluminum. What filler, preheat necessary? My idea is to drill the end of the crack, squeeze together with a ratchet strap, grind about half way through the crack in a V shape. Fill in the V with molten aluminum.
On the other side, grind the crack to the base of the previous weld bead and repeat. The crack isn't in a 'high torque' area in regards to transferring engine torque. Only on the 'bubble' that the starter nosecone protrudes into. The torque it has to deal with is the starter's torque.
Robert Pics would help out much better than an explination.zap! Thanks for the replies.
Hog: I might need your shipping or location information. I'd spend 25 plus shipping. $90 bucks around here. IF you can find one. Our guess to what caused this, is the fact it wasn't bolted to the engine. The only bolts holding the transmission to the engine was on the passenger side and the two across the top. The drivers side was not bolted.
Our second guess was someone hit the starter after the engine backfired. Forward moving starter, reverse moving engine. Starter mount breaks?
That's the updates so far. 4043 is what Ive used on bellhousings. You can weld that up for the cost of a little argon and filler. If you dont already have it. Ive welded several bellhousing and transfer case housings with no issues after it was done. But i do recomend baking the part first or torch sink the area to burn the crap out first.
V grove it to about 1/8 inch left. Put 3 good tacks on it for triangle ish piece. Then go to town.
You dont have to preheat, depending on your machine you may have to. For 20 dollars and a little time you can have it welded and be perfectly fine. The irony of the entire matter is last week i just got rid of two 80's bell housings lol. You have the hardest part already done, it is pulled out of the truck. You are totally wrong. The hardest part is getting it back in the truck I am working on an engine swap in my 92 GMC K2500 at the moment.
I didn't want to pull the tranny or transfer case. So I broke it at the bellhousing and tranny.
It took a good couple of hours fighting the engine with my pregnant wife driving the hoist to get it back in. All I can say is it ain't coming apart again. To the op, I wouldnt worry about welding it. It has too many cracks for a common truck. Now if it was uber rare I could see fixing it. Keep an eye on ebay too. I just looked they had them for 85 ranges for 55 shipped.
Last edited by Seafarer12; at 10:53 PM.